experiment gluing to plastic

The Rocketry Forum

Help Support The Rocketry Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

bjphoenix

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 3, 2011
Messages
2,714
Reaction score
2,014
Background- Gluing rocket parts to plastic seems to be a problem. Some Estes kits come with plastic transitions or plastic tail cones that need to be glued in. I'm working on an Estes Black Brant and a big part of the fin root needs to glue to the tail cone. I have a couple of Estes kits with plastic engine retainers that need to be glued on. Up until now I've used 30 minute epoxy and I did a lot of roughening of the glue surface first.

I've had an idea for a long time to do this experiment. It is holding up my Black Brant so I decided to try to move forward with the experiment. I had the idea that maybe there is a glue that would stick well to the Estes plastic part and then epoxy would stick to it. I had some glue that is used to glue plastic vanes on polished aluminum arrows so I thought it would stick anything to anything. Unfortunately I dug my tube of this glue out and found it was dried out. I dug out other glues that I had, the first was an old tube of Shoe Goo. The others are old tubes of Testors plastic cement, the blue, orange and red varieties but again the orange tube was dried out. Surprisingly the blue tube still worked and you can imagine how old it is since the price tag says 33 cents. The piece of plastic is the discard from the transition that is used to make the tail cone for the Estes Bullpup. I roughened it up with sandpaper and put one dab each of shoe goo, Testors blue and Testors red on it. After that dried for several days I stuck on pieces of 1/8" square balsa with 30 minute epoxy including a fourth piece stuck directly to the plastic. I thought all of them would come off of the plastic but I was hoping that using the intermediary glue would gain some strength. The first one was the epoxy directly to plastic and it did snap clear of the plastic without a lot of strength. The other 3 all broke the balsa before failing the bond of the adhesives. In fairness some of them ended up with larger blobs of epoxy so they were gluing to slightly more surface area. I did not expect the balsa to break first. The lesson is to just put a coating of something on there that sticks to the plastic, let it dry, then epoxy the plastic piece on as normal.
IMG_5492b.jpg
IMG_5493b.jpg
 
There are a gazillion types of plastic, some of which need different kinds of glue. For ABS and polystyrene, and probably some others, I'm pretty sure that Testor's stuff is among the better choices.
 
Glue Thread!!!!

muppets kermit GIF
 
Alternatively, one can plasma treat or flame treat, and then glue within a short time. Anyone know if you need argon or a vacuum or something for plasma treatment?
 
With an impossible plastic, you can mechanically fix through it. A nylon bolt, washer and nut weigh nothing and will give you a good fixing. Aluminium bolts are next weight( assuming titanium is not in your price range).
There are a number of YouTube videos on how to test and identify plastic types. Once you know the plastic type and what you want to bond it to you can then consider HOW to do that. Randomly testing glues on an unknown plastic is a poor way to decide how to bond materials and is a last resort..
Here's a Feb post
https://www.rocketryforum.com/threads/gluing-abs-with-epoxy.184747/

:)
 
Last edited:
remember 20 years ago, the Estes line of X Prize models? those were all made in China of some plastic that didn't work with orange Testors. So I used MEK instead, as suggested by Christine at Estes.

Methyl Ethyl Ketone is highly carcinogenic, not fun to breathe like the toluene in orange Testors. but I bet it will work on your plastic.
 
Alternatively, one can plasma treat or flame treat, and then glue within a short time. Anyone know if you need argon or a vacuum or something for plasma treatment?
I use a propane torch and run the flame over the plastic, just fast enough so it won't soften. (After sanding.) Glue or paint ASAP.
 
I recently completed building an Apogee Lexxjet. The basswood tail fin has to be butt joined to a styrene (that's how it's listed on Apogee's website) nose cone (truncated to make a tail cone). The instructions say to use thick CA. ??? I kind of questioned the choice, so I thought I'd experiment on a piece of the nose cone base that got cut off. It had a flat section to experiment on. I scuffed it with coarse sand paper. Pieces of 1/8" basswood were used.

I tried Testor's red tube, it took very little effort to snap off the wood. It was the glue that failed, the plastic was unscathed.

Next was FabriTac. It's always worked better for me than Testors. The bond was stronger, but it also failed in the same manner as the Testor's.

JB PlasticWeld epoxy did better, but again it was the glue that failed.

And.... The recommended thick CA. Grabbing the wood a ways away from the joint, the wood broke. Grabbing what was left right near the joint took considerable effort to break it. To my surprise, it was the plastic that failed.

Bottom line: I ended up gluing it on with thick CA. Then did a fillet with more thick CA. And covered that fillet with a fillet of JB Plasticweld. Why? Not sure. This glue joint bears the brunt of the landing, as the tail fin sticks way, way out the back. So I took a belt and suspenders approach. It's flown several times, no evidence of the tail fin joint failing.

Hans.
 
I am surprised you liked the JB PlasticWeld for fillets. When I use it, it has a slight foaming action. It can be nice that it has that gap filling feature, but on a fillet, I wouldn't think it would keep the shape of the fillet as it was formed while liquid.

Testor's red tube doesn't actually glue PS that well, IME. The bond you get from Tamiya (and presumably other) liquid model cements is far, far stronger. But they don't have the material to soak into a non-plastic mating part like wood or a body tube.

For the wood fin end grain butt-glued to PS, I'd for sure include Duco Cement in my test plan. It's a good, old-fashioned nitrocellulose adhesive. Nice, thin solvent glue that can soak into the grain and will also engage a range of plastics very effectively. Many sources are wildly overpriced, but it's available cheaply here at the local Ace. It does continue shrinking for some time after it initially dries, so if used on an asymmetric joint, it may pull things around and cause warping.
 
Last edited:
Any 2-part epoxy should bond wood to plastic, although there's a weight penalty for using epoxy, but that can be mitigated somewhat by thinning the epoxy with acetone, which increases set/drying time, but is well worth it for the strong, yet light results.
 
I am surprised you liked the JB PlasticWeld for fillets. When I use it, it has a slight foaming action. It can be nice that it has that gap filling feature, but on a fillet, I wouldn't think it would keep the shape of the fillet as it was formed while liquid.

Testor's red tube doesn't actually glue PS that well, IME. The bond you get from Tamiya (and presumably other) liquid model cements is far, far stronger. But they don't have the material to soak into a non-plastic mating part like wood or a body tube.

For the wood fin end grain butt-glued to PS, I'd for sure include Duco Cement in my test plan. It's a good, old-fashioned nitrocellulose adhesive. Nice, thin solvent glue that can soak into the grain and will also engage a range of plastics very effectively. Many sources are wildly overpriced, but it's available cheaply here at the local Ace. It does continue shrinking for some time after it initially dries, so if used on an asymmetric joint, it may pull things around and cause warping.
Hmmm... The PlasticWeld I used looked and acted exactly like JB 5 minute epoxy. Completely clear, didn't see any tendency to foam. Maybe different formulas over time? It wasn't because I "liked" it, I was assuming it to be better than JB 5 minute, and it was just to supplement the CA. You know, Just In Case. It also made a smoother, better appearing fillet than the CA.

I haven't used Duco cement since I was a kid. Back then, it didn't seem terribly effective for what I used it for, but I was undoubtedly using it for something it wasn't meant for. If something broke, I basically tried anything on the shelf in the closet. Usually with poor results as I wasn't matching the proper glue to what needed repaired.

I'll have to revisit Duco. I haven't seen it for sale in ages.

Hans.
 
Any 2-part epoxy should bond wood to plastic, although there's a weight penalty for using epoxy, but that can be mitigated somewhat by thinning the epoxy with acetone, which increases set/drying time, but is well worth it for the strong, yet light results.
My experiment with using epoxy on plastic showed it to be vastly inferior to thick CA. Much to my surprise.

Hans.
 
There is no SINGLE magic formula for gluing to plastic. You MUST first identify which plastic you are trying to bond to. Polythene in its many forms works best with surface flaming to create an interface layer that can be glued to. But at best it's still a poor fixing in comparison to a nylon bolt through it.
Styrenes including ABS, bond well with a solvent as does pvc for which there are plenty of primers and mek based solvent glues at your local plumbing suppliers.
 
I was specifically interested in the white plastic that Estes uses for LPR nose cones as that is the plastic I most frequently work with.
 
Hmmm... The PlasticWeld I used looked and acted exactly like JB 5 minute epoxy. Completely clear, didn't see any tendency to foam.
I use it all the time with zero foaming.

Oops, I goofed. The one I have used that foams slightly is

J-B Weld 50133 Plastic Bonder Structural Adhesive Syringe - Tan - 25 ml

https://www.amazon.com/J-B-Weld-50133-Tan-1-Pack/dp/B009EU5ZNO/


I did once try BSI 5 minute to fillet over CA as a test and the joint failed by the epoxy fillet peeling off the CA at low load.
 
I think the post right above yours might be the ticket...
I don't do enough of this gluing to plastic to make it worthwhile for me to buy another tube of specialty glue. I was trying to experiment with what I had on hand. I just built an Estes Bullpup and glued the rear boat tail in with epoxy. I'm also working on an Estes Black Brant and I also glued that boat tail in with epoxy, but it has fins that glue partly to the boat tail. I can glue them on with epoxy but then what do I do for the fillets? I will probably have to do some homemade thickened epoxy and use it for the little fillets.

And BTW I did another couple of glue tests on the scrap piece of transition just to be sure I didn't miss anything. I use Titebond II for almost all of my rocket building and I've noticed that it can really stick to some things with smooth surface such as metal tools and even the nozzle of the glue bottle itself. So I glued a couple of pieces of balsa to a sanded portion of the transition. One piece I glued directly with TBII, the other piece I glued onto an area that had a coat of the Testors model cement. Unfortunately both pieces snapped off cleanly without much effort so that part of the experiment was a fail which puts me back to using epoxy for the fins and fin fillets.
 
So, the take I got form you is the wood broke and not the bond.
6 different tests, 3 of them broke the wood and not the bond. These 3 were using epoxy on top of some form of plastic glue that stuck to the plastic.
 
I've noticed that Titebond III can stick tenaciously to some smooth plastic surfaces if you don't want it to. I don't know if you can get it to do so on purpose. My dehumidifier in the basement has a few tiny little drips on it.
 
I like how Estes solved the problem of gluing plastic to cardboard for the Alpha III - they avoided it. The plastic fin unit is sandwiched between two paper centering rings glued to the body tube.

You can do something similar with other plastic parts by cutting holes in the plastic for the glue or epoxy to go through to adhere two wood or paper parts to each side of the plastic part or to allow the glue to fill the hole and form sort of a rivet.
 
I like how Estes solved the problem of gluing plastic to cardboard for the Alpha III - they avoided it. The plastic fin unit is sandwiched between two paper centering rings glued to the body tube.

You can do something similar with other plastic parts by cutting holes in the plastic for the glue or epoxy to go through to adhere two wood or paper parts to each side of the plastic part or to allow the glue to fill the hole and form sort of a rivet.
That’s exactly what I do - glue rivets work because you are making a mechanical connection and not relying on the adhesive.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top