What did you do rocket wise today?

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Worked on repairing the goblin.. got her all cleaned up.. a body tube and coupler should be here early next week.. you can see the ejection charge went off right when the nosecone and tube were compressed up againstthe rear of the motor.. there's a pattern on one side of the cone from the charge where it took off paint..20240502_120520.jpg20240502_120427.jpg
 
Deployed a large (3'x4') cutting mat to my workbench. Can't wait to actually do something with it. Originally getting a small mat (12"x18") was the second stupidest thing I did when getting back into rocketry; the stupidest was to actually live with it for 9 years before realizing that I could get a bigger one. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
mat_finished.jpeg
 
Deployed a large (3'x4') cutting mat to my workbench. Can't wait to actually do something with it. Originally getting a small mat (12"x18") was the second stupidest thing I did when getting back into rocketry; the stupidest was to actually live with it for 9 years before realizing that I could get a bigger one.
I couldn't get enough open space on my small workbench for the 12" x 18" one.
 
I got the first coat of Rustoleum primer on four of the Rockies i've been working on and this will be the very last time that I use a Rustoleum product
 
Still trying to get better at papering. Papered some fins on the New Way Little John that I've had sitting around half-finished for months (lots of irl stuff happened to slow me down).
 
First round of paint for my youngest's Big Bertha. She is obsessed with fire type Pokemon so this one is getting yellow and orange for Flareon.
Then treated myself to the 29/180 and 29/360 motor casing combo pack at Wildman...
 
First round of paint for my youngest's Big Bertha. She is obsessed with fire type Pokemon so this one is getting yellow and orange for Flareon.
Then treated myself to the 29/180 and 29/360 motor casing combo pack at Wildman...
Through no fault of my own, I'm fairly sure I can still name all of the original Pokemon. The kids had the cards, the games, the little figures, I think I picked up a lot of it through osmosis. I coached a 3rd & 4th grade basketball team and one kid announced that he would no longer respond to his name, but only to Mew. And he would only communicate through mews. I still occasionally find the Burger King stuff in various boxes.
 
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Through no fault of my own, I'm fairly sure I can still name all of the original Pokemon. The kids had the cards, the games, the little figures, I think I picked up a lot of is through osmosis. I coached a 3rd & 4th grade basketball team and one kid announced that he would no longer respond to his name, but only to Mew. And he would only communicate through mews. I still occasionally find the Burger King stuff in various boxes.
If it makes you feel better, I spent 30 dollars on a GBA in order to play Pokémon emerald…

Ps those games are addicting…
 
I'm working through the finishing steps on an Aerotech HV Arcas, and I've got the launch lugs attached as described in the instructions. The kit also came with a set of conformal rail guides which I also want to install, but there are no instructions for installation. Obviously they should be centered between 2 fins, one near the bottom of the airframe and the other somewhere a little above the fins, like regular rail buttons.

Question 1: Should I use CA glue to install the conformal rail guides or should I use epoxy to attach them to the airframe?

Question 2: Is there any structural downside to not installing the fin can? It's just a cut up piece of tube glued between the fins, but maybe it secure the upper section of the fins which are not in contact with the airframe?

Thanks!
G

Pic 1: installed lugs
Pic 2: conformal rail guide
Pic 3: conformal rail guides placed on tube (not attached)

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20240503_200628.jpg
 
Did some research last night on Australian hardwood densities for the Level 3 build project, then visited a local woodworking specialist, Carbatec, only 2km away from home and bought a 1m plank of 106mm x 30mm Spotted Gum for A$22. Cut it into four and the plan is to glue me a block of approx. 106mm x 120mm x 250mm for turning down at a later date to make a hardwood nosecone tip for the flax level 3 project - Flax Capacitor.

My measured density of this Spotted Gum is 1071 kg/m3 ( approx. 66lbs/cu.ft. ) so the finished tip ought to weigh approx. 420gms to assist with stability, but in a green/sustainable way instead of the more traditional aluminium tip. Well, that's the plan for now.

Also chased the supplier in South Australia for my replenishment of Bio-Epoxy, and it should be here on Tuesday, including an extra 1.5kg for the delay. Bonus!

20240504 Nose Tip Wood pic1.jpg 20240504 Nose Tip Wood pic3.jpg
 
Question 2: Is there any structural downside to not installing the fin can? It's just a cut up piece of tube glued between the fins, but maybe it secure the upper section of the fins which are not in contact with the airframe?
To paraphrase Lisa Simpson, "I know all those words, but I can't make sense of that paragraph."
 
Did some research last night on Australian hardwood densities for the Level 3 build project, then visited a local woodworking specialist, Carbatec, only 2km away from home and bought a 1m plank of 106mm x 30mm Spotted Gum for A$22. Cut it into four and the plan is to glue me a block of approx. 106mm x 120mm x 250mm for turning down at a later date to make a hardwood nosecone tip for the flax level 3 project - Flax Capacitor.

My measured density of this Spotted Gum is 1071 kg/m3 ( approx. 66lbs/cu.ft. ) so the finished tip ought to weigh approx. 420gms to assist with stability, but in a green/sustainable way instead of the more traditional aluminium tip. Well, that's the plan for now.

Also chased the supplier in South Australia for my replenishment of Bio-Epoxy, and it should be here on Tuesday, including an extra 1.5kg for the delay. Bonus!

View attachment 643651 View attachment 643652
That’s dense wood! If you have extra and some lathe time, you can make wood rail buttons too.
 
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