Trouble Reprogramming Eggfinder Frequency

[Antares JS]

I did write in to support at Eggtimer, but thought someone here might also be able to help me troubleshoot this.

I'm trying to reprogram my eggfinder's frequency away from the default for LDRS, but after moving the jumper to PRG on the transmitter and connecting it properly to the receiver, the transmitter will not turn on (no light in the LED's) when I turn the receiver on. The instructions specifically say not to connect a battery to the transmitter, it will be powered by the receiver during the process.

 

[Kane]

Stupid question, I know. Are you sure you have the programming cable connected to the 3.3V, GND, and TXD pins on the RX and the corresponding on the TX? If you missed the 3.3V it obviously won't provide power.

 

[Antares JS]

Yes, I checked that a bunch of times.

 

[heada]

Using a multimeter, what voltage do you get from the +3.3v to gnd lines on the receiver?

 

[Antares JS]

Unfortunately, I don't own a multimeter.

 

[Kane]

Do you have a second Eggfinder TX to see if that one powers on? I'm sure Cris will suggest steps to isolate if the issue is at the TX end or the RX.
Any of the solder joints for the pins look questionable? Maybe even the PRG pins?

FWIW, I didn't have a multimeter either until I started putting Eggtimer kits together. I use it primarily to test e-matches, but occasionally if I'm trying to diagnose what I may have screwed up on an ET kit.

 

[Antares JS]

Do you have a second Eggfinder TX to see if that one powers on? I'm sure Cris will suggest steps to isolate if the issue is at the TX end or the RX.
Any of the solder joints for the pins look questionable? Maybe even the PRG pins?

FWIW, I didn't have a multimeter either until I started putting Eggtimer kits together. I use it primarily to test e-matches, but occasionally if I'm trying to diagnose what I may have screwed up on an ET kit.

I don't own a second Eggfinder, and none of the solder joints immediately struck me as problematic.

I may have to just go get a multimeter sometime next week.

 

[Antares JS]

Here's the weird thing that I should probably mention, though.

I initially went through the frequency change process without noticing that I needed to check if the transmitter was on, and when I entered the new ID number, the receiver froze and the green light in the transmitter flashed rapidly while the lights in the receiver came on and stayed on.

 

[Antares JS]

Well, a big never mind. I tried it again and it just worked for no apparent reason.

I just don't get electronics sometimes.

 

[cerving]

1) Do you have the jumper on the PGM pins instead of the RUN pins? 2) When you connect the cable to your TX and power on the LCD, do both the red and green lights on the RF module light? 3) When you finish the programming sequence after setting the ID, do you get the "OK Reset to Start" message?

 

[Antares JS]

1) Do you have the jumper on the PGM pins instead of the RUN pins? 2) When you connect the cable to your TX and power on the LCD, do both the red and green lights on the RF module light? 3) When you finish the programming sequence after setting the ID, do you get the "OK Reset to Start" message?

The jumper was on PGM, the lights on the transmitter were not coming on, and I was not getting the OK message. The first time I didn't get the OK message, I examined my setup and realized the transmitter wasn't coming on.

However, again, I tried it again later and it just worked. I really have no idea why it suddenly worked in the evening after I struggled with it for over an hour in the afternoon, but I'm good to go. I tested it outside on the new frequency and it works fine.

 

[cerving]

If the lights weren't coming on it could be because either the jumper was bad (yes, I've seen a few) or the 3-pin cable had a loose pin. A slight crimp on the pins with pliers would take care of that.

 

[Antares JS]

If the lights weren't coming on it could be because either the jumper was bad (yes, I've seen a few) or the 3-pin cable had a loose pin. A slight crimp on the pins with pliers would take care of that.

The jumper was fine as when I checked it by leaving it on PRG and connecting the battery, the lights came on fine. If it comes up again, I'll take a closer look at the 3-pin cable.