Return of the Estes Pro Series II Nike Smoke

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Here is an interesting item on Amazon for "Nike Smoke"

It had 11 in stock around Wednesday , and now 8 so someone is buying them. It ships from eRockets , yet look at the description of this $37 Nike Smoke :oops:

https://www.amazon.com/Estes-Walker-Flying-Model-Rocket/dp/B01GKB4KYE/

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This happens on Amazon if not frequently then enough to be noticeable - maybe they have slightly impaired AI program for maintaining catalog entries? Who knows exactly what you’ll get - pay your money take your chances 😎
 
This happens on Amazon if not frequently then enough to be noticeable - maybe they have slightly impaired AI program for maintaining catalog entries? Who knows exactly what you’ll get - pay your money take your chances 😎
Estes seems to have a bunch of OOP kits for jacked up "buy it now" style pricing on Amazon. Me thinks it is deliberate and not some AI glitch.

Remember when Estes used to blow discontinued inventory out the door at extremely reduced prices? Priced to sell! The new management seems to be doing the opposite. I just sold on eBay a bunch of kits that were recently discontinued and they went for "for real" pricing - not crap like $26.99 for the discontinued Twister (Centuri reissue) for instance.
 
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Estes seems to have a bunch of OOP kits for jacked up "buy it now" style pricing on Amazon. Me thinks it is deliberate and not some AI glitch.

Remember when Estes used to blow discontinued inventory out the door at extremely reduced prices? Priced to sell! The new management seems to be doing the opposite. I just sold on eBay a bunch of kits that were recently discontinued and they went for "for real" pricing - not crap like $26.99 for the discontinued Twister (Centuri reissue) for instance.

Well your Little Joe II ending price made me want to get rid of one my mine on eBay 🤣
 

Nice. 🤔

I have an old Quest ‘Quick kit’ Smoke and another 18 mm version would be good.

Probably around $65 for that when it gets to Oz. Double that for the 24 mm version.
 
Thanks for the code. That made a big difference by offsetting the shipping. Tentative weight reduction via lightening holes in the two rear CRs, a shortened motor tube, a lighter chute, some NC mods, and elimination of the green spacer/motor retainer. Paint scheme to be...
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Heres my attempt at the same color scheme....

T300 Nike Smoke36.jpg
 
Has anyone used the old Testors or equivalent to attach the fin halves on the Pro Series? I just have a bad feeling using CA if the fins are, in fact, styrene.
Thanks,
Bob

I use CA on all the plastic PSII CA fins with Binder clamps holding them together on each side.
You need to use enough CA to seal all the edges from air getting in.
Yes some CA will get on the outside of the fins, don't panic*

Then when dry inspect each edge and use thin CA if any spot needs more sealing. When dry again wet sand in the sink* with 400 wet sand paper. Then mask off the fin tab, and paint before gluing.

*This is quick and easy and much less difficult & messy then sanding Balsa or Plywood.
 
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CA is the only way to glue these fins with. In addition, I use accelerator on all fin edges after CA application. Result, plastic will break before the bond itself.
 
Rail button backing block?

Oh, OK. I've never used those or seen the need on something that size. On larger models I put them in the centering rings. The rocket in my avatar does not have them either, as it was built to be able to hold a 4" motor if ever need be minimum diameter flight. It was flown with a 3" M motor with an adapter with boat tail from 4"-3"
 
Oh, OK. I've never used those or seen the need on something that size. On larger models I put them in the centering rings. The rocket in my avatar does not have them either, as it was built to be able to hold a 4" motor if ever need be minimum diameter flight. It was flown with a 3" M motor with an adapter with boat tail from 4"-3"
Thats exactly what it is, and I try when space is available to use them on all rockets with cardboard airframes that will be flying on H's and I's. Centering rings on this rocket are only 1/8" thick, so a #8 screw wont get a solid bite since the screws major diameter is wider than the CR is thick. With my mods that clone still only weighs 1oz more than the Estes kits advertised weight.
 
OK, that is a good idea. However I have flown H, I 4" rockets with just thru the tube with Epoxy forming a rivet on the inside, Including an Estes Ascender 2" rocket on an H135 and Partizon on I205.
 
Has anyone used the old Testors or equivalent to attach the fin halves on the Pro Series? I just have a bad feeling using CA if the fins are, in fact, styrene.
Thanks,
Bob
I have used epoxy on these. Cover the outside of each fin half completely with blue painters tape, trim to the edges. Rough up the bonding surfaces (carefully) on the insides of the halves. Test fit pairs of of halves. Lay them out on a releasable work surface, like wax paper. Brush on 30 minute epoxy on bonding surfaces, put the halves together, and clamp each fin edge with a Bulldog paper clamp. Set them all on the wax paper to dry. Any epoxy that oozes out the edges will pull off easily when dry. When they are dry (say overnight), take off the Bulldog clips, and peel the tape off. You should have a set of clean, solid Nike Smoke fins.
 
One suggestion iirc (from when they were available before) for those building the Estes PSII Nike Smoke is to cover the fin leading edges in either clear packing tape or clear vinyl, it was to prevent the fins splitting down the seam line if not fully bonded. The fins splitting apart in flight has happened.....
 
I ordered one. There's a special place in my heart for this rocket - I got my L1 flying an H128. The only modification I made was to plut clear packing tape over the leading edges of the fins to stop any air infiltration. I flew that rocket multiple times on F to H motors, until it came down with a fowled chute and broke a fin hitting frozen ground.
 
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