What did you do rocket wise today?

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Prepped 5 rockets for Sunday's CMASS launch in Amesbury MA. Left to right: Honey Badger (Estes Doorknob), KSP-II (LOC Graduator), NCR SA-14 Archer, LOC Athena and SunDiver (LOC Sandhawk). Also assembled my first reload - an AT G64-4, which will be powering SunDiver.

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Scored this great altimeter test kit!

Amazing. Just going to waste in a kitchen cupboard!

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Snap! I've been using the same "re-purposed" kitchen item for the past few years. Works well. From the altimeter's I've put in it, the hand pumping gives a bit of a saw-tooth ascent curve so you have to pump quickly to avoid a false apogee being detected. My altimeters have clocked 17,000ft in there!

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I spent 2 more hours printing out documentation for Ken at Performance hobbies which I will see tomorrow so that he knows what fiberglass parts i need .
 
It was a particularly productive day rocketry wise today.

I puttied, sanded, primed, sanded the body tube for my Big Daddy, and papered the fins.

Had the first flight (and caught) my Big Bertha on a B4-4. Also launched all the kids, and my own, Swifts/Mosquitoes. Seven flights all up with no lost rockets, though those small rockets with no chute or streamer are exceptionally hard to see, and in a few cases we spent quite a bit of time scouring the ground trying to find a small rocket half buried in the grass...

Built and tested the altimeter for my Eggtimer/BMS DD Rocket. It went together exceptionally easily.
 
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Laminated a second plywood fin with Flax cloth materials for the "Flax Capacitor" my Level 3 organic rocket concept.

Same method as before - Fin core is 5.6mm marine plywood; a triple flax sandwich each side using 200gsm and 300gsm flax cloth. Oven dried the flax laminations at 110degrees C for 15mins just before laminating.

Used a total of 300gms of bio epoxy in the process to ensure the flax fibres got a good soaking into their cores, which is a known challenge of using organic material versus f/glass. The laminates went on, reverse layer cake fashion as before, peel ply and absorbent material on top. Vacuum bagged using my food saver appliance.

Took 3 hours to cure to leather stage. De-bagged and trimmed. I weighted the peel ply and absorbent material with the excess epoxy that was drawn into it - 200gms total, so a big wastage of epoxy to get the required soaking and bonding.
 
Prepped 5 rockets for Sunday's CMASS launch in Amesbury MA. Left to right: Honey Badger (Estes Doorknob), KSP-II (LOC Graduator), NCR SA-14 Archer, LOC Athena and SunDiver (LOC Sandhawk). Also assembled my first reload - an AT G64-4, which will be powering SunDiver.

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I wasn't going to go, but you are tempting me. I only have one super simple rocket to fly, though, and I'm not sure it's worth the drive. I guess, since CMASS seems to be a NAR club, they never have any "experimental" motors there? And I really should burn the gunk out of my car's engine once in a while. Will there be any vendors? What's the altitude limit there? On reviewing the wind forecast, I guess everyone will be pretty conservative with altitude, unless they have an RC rocket glider or something. Hmmmm...
Snap! I've been using the same "re-purposed" kitchen item for the past few years. Works well. From the altimeter's I've put in it, the hand pumping gives a bit of a saw-tooth ascent curve so you have to pump quickly to avoid a false apogee being detected. My altimeters have clocked 17,000ft in there!

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Can you use something like that to calibrate your altimeter too? What would you check it against? I have a couple of vacuum pumps, but I doubt a vacuum gauge is accurate enough for checking the calibration of an altimeter. One could turn an ordinary aquarium pump to a vacuum source for a virtual 5,000 feet of altitude.
Laminated a second plywood fin with Flax cloth materials for the "Flax Capacitor" my Level 3 organic rocket concept.

Same method as before - Fin core is 5.6mm marine plywood; a triple flax sandwich each side using 200gsm and 300gsm flax cloth. Oven dried the flax laminations at 110degrees C for 15mins just before laminating.

Used a total of 300gms of bio epoxy in the process to ensure the flax fibres got a good soaking into their cores, which is a known challenge of using organic material versus f/glass. The laminates went on, reverse layer cake fashion as before, peel ply and absorbent material on top. Vacuum bagged using my food saver appliance.

Took 3 hours to cure to leather stage. De-bagged and trimmed. I weighted the peel ply and absorbent material with the excess epoxy that was drawn into it - 200gms total, so a big wastage of epoxy to get the required soaking and bonding.
Got any info or links on the structural properties of this stuff? I gotta wonder how they make bio-epoxy without using refined dead dinosaurs. Have you considered infusion? Not something I've tried just yet myself, and my bags, on the rare occasion I do it, tend to have frustrating little leaks.

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As far as what I did, rocket-wise yesterday I was out for a walk and saw that someone was throwing out metal pipe that looked like it might be the right ID for my Jetex fuel molds. It turned out to be exactly the right ID. Upon review this morning, it turned out I had a piece of PVC electrical conduit that could be persuaded with heat to go over the pipe to make it match the diameter of my other molds. So I cut three molds and added the conduit, with epoxy, to make them match my tooling. Maybe later today I'll wax the molds and mix up some fuel, which is all ready except for the epoxy. Hmm... maybe I'll try hair gel as mold release again. I have a vague memory that it worked well. Maybe I won't have to ream the molds afterwards.
 
Finally got the missing closures so I can post my motor order. Doesn't seem like much for $200 (also renewed my wm membership which pretty much paid for itself with the hardware order). So two loads, a motor, wm membership, and shipping was just short of $200. Looking forward to using the 38/120 again
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Went back to grinding cracked fillets, finished my Wildman 4 inch V2, "R2-V2" and did Sharon's 4 inch "Big Bad Juan".
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Mixed up a couple batches of old Rocketpoxy and added some black tint.

Now they are in the AZ curing oven:
AZ curing R2-V2 and BBJ.jpg

While I'm waiting for the cure, (won't take long) I'm building motors for next months NSL West.
Just finished a 3 grain CTI L995 Red Lightning, been a while since I built a CTI 75mm.
Need to build two K540 Metalstorms, and a J540 Redline for R2-V2.
 
5/8 of sod all because it’s still raining! Have some friends coming this afternoon for a roast dinner and some rocket flying. Maybe we will make paper aeroplanes instead.
 
We went to the local launch that had about 20 people there, but I got to talk to the local vendor, and give him some information about things I need from him.
 
Did a lot of work this week. It will be interesting to see the Radical Rocketry Little Boy Atom Bomb fly. It comes as a builder's kit with 3D parts provided and you supply the tubes and recovery gear. He has some really interesting kits. Search for Radical Rocketry on Facebook and check them out. Other rockets are the ASP RP3 (24mm), Rocketarium Blue J and Estes Zinger,
 

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Can you use something like that to calibrate your altimeter too? What would you check it against? I have a couple of vacuum pumps, but I doubt a vacuum gauge is accurate enough for checking the calibration of an altimeter. One could turn an ordinary aquarium pump to a vacuum source for a virtual 5,000 feet of altitude.
Best I've been able to do was to put another altimeter in there with it, a Jolly Logic Altimeter 3. Wouldn't count as calibration but gives some indication.


Got any info or links on the structural properties of this stuff? I gotta wonder how they make bio-epoxy without using refined dead dinosaurs. Have you considered infusion? Not something I've tried just yet myself, and my bags, on the rare occasion I do it, tend to have frustrating little leaks.
I've not gotten into the infusion technique simply due to the tooling costs for doing it well, plus the food saver method is a cost effective method for doing flat pieces up to 250mm / 10 inch wide. I've scaled and designed the fins for this build project with this size constraint in mind.

The bio-epoxy I'm using is made using the waste by-products (Glycerol) generated by the processes for converting vegetable oils into bio-diesel fuel. Here's a link to the tech details page of the bio-Epoxy manufacturer. https://www.changeclimate.com.au/technical-details
 
Went trawling the interweb for organic material 25mm/1 inch tubular webbing, e.g. cotton webbing, of sufficient strength for the 13kg/28lbs level 3 build project. If the strength of the material is sufficient, Id like to consider organic options before falling back to the safe bet of 38mm and 25mm tubular nylon.

Not found anything yet worth pressing the "Buy" button on. Sent an email to two providers asking them to provide strength/breaking strain figures for their 25mm product. https://www.vardhman.com.au/cotton-webbing-natural-25mm-x-50m

Any thoughts folks?
 
Went trawling the interweb for organic material 25mm/1 inch tubular webbing, e.g. cotton webbing, of sufficient strength for the 13kg/28lbs level 3 build project. If the strength of the material is sufficient, Id like to consider organic options before falling back to the safe bet of 38mm and 25mm tubular nylon.

Not found anything yet worth pressing the "Buy" button on. Sent an email to two providers asking them to provide strength/breaking strain figures for their 25mm product. https://www.vardhman.com.au/cotton-webbing-natural-25mm-x-50m

Any thoughts folks?
Thought.....Use kevlar. It's not like your shackles, eyes, screwed rods are going to be denim. It's safer..
 
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