Water slide decal

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Michael Fitzpatrick

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Hi to all
I produce turned wooden items and are looking to include decals to my work. I have used Dr Decal water slide paper in the past. Are they still supplying as their site says sold out for 90% of their stock.
The transfer onto black wood isn’t successful. Any advice would help.
 

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Hi to all
I produce turned wooden items and are looking to include decals to my work. I have used Dr Decal water slide paper in the past. Are they still supplying as their site says sold out for 90% of their stock.
The transfer onto black wood isn’t successful. Any advice would help.
1) there are many brands of decal paper that are fine. Don't get too hung up on one of them. I order Sunnyscopa paper from Amazon and it has been good for me.
2) Decals will lay better on a smooth surface glossy surface. The wood under the decal on the right is not that (the paint is either flat, or the wood is sufficiently rough that even gloss paint is coming out looking flat. Do a decal test on a black surface that you have ensured is smooth and glossy, and see if you get different results.
3) if the decals are thick then that will make even more difficult for them to conform. I don't know if the paper you used there is thick or thin, or how much clear coat was applied (if ink-jet).
4) A decal solvent like Micro-sol will help the decal conform to the surface, so it'll be a little more tolerant of surface irregularities. I always use it. It is applied after the decal is in position, either while still wet (how I do it) or after the decal is dry.
5) Welcome to the forum. :)

A bit of experimentation with decals is definitely helpful until you get the hang of it.
 
1) there are many brands of decal paper that are fine. Don't get too hung up on one of them. I order Sunnyscopa paper from Amazon and it has been good for me.
2) Decals will lay better on a smooth surface glossy surface. The wood under the decal on the right is not that (the paint is either flat, or the wood is sufficiently rough that even gloss paint is coming out looking flat. Do a decal test on a black surface that you have ensured is smooth and glossy, and see if you get different results.
3) if the decals are thick then that will make even more difficult for them to conform. I don't know if the paper you used there is thick or thin, or how much clear coat was applied (if ink-jet).
4) A decal solvent like Micro-sol will help the decal conform to the surface, so it'll be a little more tolerant of surface irregularities. I always use it. It is applied after the decal is in position, either while still wet (how I do it) or after the decal is dry.
5) Welcome to the forum. :)

A bit of experimentation with decals is definitely helpful until you get the hang of it.
Thanks for the advice. Purchase clear and white from another supplier. Would like to know if Dr Decal was still trading
 
Making home printed decals work on a dark surface is very difficult unless you have a special printer that can print opaque inks (ALPS is one brand that does).

The problem is that the dark surface shows through the decal.

If your design is simple enough (like a rectangle), you can use white decal paper and cut the decal out precisely on the line.

If the design is too detailed for that, another option is to use the white paper and print a background that matches what you're putting it on. Then cut it out close, and let the printed background blend with the background you're putting it on. Getting a good match takes a lot of trial and error. I'm not sure if wood grain will make it easier or harder to blend in — I suspect easier if you can scan a piece of the wood for the background, and avoid straight lines cutting out the decal.

(As noted earlier, decals look best applied to a smoth, glossy surface. If your goal is a satin or matte finish, make it glossy first, then apply the decals, then seal with a clear coat, then give it the final finish you want.)
 
Making home printed decals work on a dark surface is very difficult unless you have a special printer that can print opaque inks (ALPS is one brand that does).

The problem is that the dark surface shows through the decal.

If your design is simple enough (like a rectangle), you can use white decal paper and cut the decal out precisely on the line.

If the design is too detailed for that, another option is to use the white paper and print a background that matches what you're putting it on. Then cut it out close, and let the printed background blend with the background you're putting it on. Getting a good match takes a lot of trial and error. I'm not sure if wood grain will make it easier or harder to blend in — I suspect easier if you can scan a piece of the wood for the background, and avoid straight lines cutting out the decal.

(As noted earlier, decals look best applied to a smoth, glossy surface. If your goal is a satin or matte finish, make it glossy first, then apply the decals, then seal with a clear coat, then give it the final finish you want.)
You can also print more than one and layer them.
 
Thanks for the advice. Purchase clear and white from another supplier. Would like to know if Dr Decal was still trading
I would never order from that company. I cannot find a means to contact the company on their website. It may be Legitimate, but it screams otherwise.
 
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