I ended up disabling the filament sensor and that print finished just fine. I think I may have moved the print head when clearing the filament path?
3D Printing Prusa MK4
- Thread starter Huxter
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That would do it.
My MK4 had a few "stalls" today. Mid-print it stops for ~ 20 seconds. then continues like normal. It happened 5 times in one 6 hour print. This is printing off the stock usb drive. This is prusa slicer 2.7.1. MK4 firmware 5.1.0. This is a binary gcode file (.bgcode). The filename stops scrolling. The print time, remainging time, and end time stop cycling on display. Time just stops for about 20 seconds!
Someone on Reddit noted:
it was related to too many gcode commands in rapid order (think like tight hilbert curve infill)
where the machine was executing instructions faster than the SD card or serial port could pass them,
resulting in short stalls while things caught up.
Sounds very reasonable to me. So what would be some good options to fix these stalls?
- Get a better usb stick - ie usb 3.0
- print from prusa connect?
- attach usb to printer and print from my laptop/ or an octo pi?
Has happened twice now on larger prints. The first time, I aborted the print. I should have given it more time to finish.
Someone on Reddit noted:
it was related to too many gcode commands in rapid order (think like tight hilbert curve infill)
where the machine was executing instructions faster than the SD card or serial port could pass them,
resulting in short stalls while things caught up.
Sounds very reasonable to me. So what would be some good options to fix these stalls?
- Get a better usb stick - ie usb 3.0
- print from prusa connect?
- attach usb to printer and print from my laptop/ or an octo pi?
Has happened twice now on larger prints. The first time, I aborted the print. I should have given it more time to finish.
Printing today. I finished my Mk3S to 4 upgrade. 10-12 hours of work.
Testing out great.
I added a clear face plate so I watch the gears.
Testing out great.
I added a clear face plate so I watch the gears.
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My MK4 is still sitting in the box. Hopefully in the next few weeks I will get some free time to put it together.
It is easy to build, but read each step twice. I had to repeat a few.
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Well, I started on it tonight since one of my MK3s decided to start peeing around the heat sink. I will build the MK4 and then order an upgrade kit for the one that needs some work. Figure if I need to pull it apart it would be a good time to do the upgrade to it.
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Yes it is. I fixed it once before. I want to upgrade both of my mk3s so this just gives me a good reason to do this one now.
Good news. I am a very experienced person with V6 extruders. It is a great design with a flaw.
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Got bored after class today and fixed it so now all 3 units are up and running. Still got a little playing to do with the mk4 but so far I am loving it.
Great news!
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After looking at the price difference between the upgrade kit and what a new mk4 kit cost, I think I am going to just get another mk4 kit. I will just put both of my mk3s in cabinets and just use them for ABS and Nylon printing.
NTP2
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Are you a teacher or a student?
That’s what I am doing. The only thing the upgrade saves you is time.
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Do not see where it saves time when you have to print all the plastic parts.
Good point. The assembly is shorter and if you have a printer like I do, the parts were printed before the upgrade arrived.
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Auto leveling is a real time saver when swapping print sheets or nozzles. Sometimes I need a slower first layer print speed to get PETG to stick, but for the most part the first layer is almost always perfect.
Which print sheet are you using? I am not having the sticking issue.
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I have 2 MK4s and one has a fit every now and then with not sticking on the textured sheet. I found when it does this if I go and wash it with soap and water, it fixes it for a while.
I recommend the Satin sheet. I cleaned mine with dawn and a nonpscratch sponge before use. I do so atleast 2-3 time a week when in use.
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That will not work as the customer I print parts for wants the textured finish.
I've not done any rigorous testing, but sometimes my Mk4 seems to lose its z ever so slightly. If cleaning the bed doesn't fix poor adhesion, I trigger Auto Home, and that seems to do the trick.
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Textured sheet is the worst, satin sheet is better. Nonscratch sponge scrub with warm water and mild detergent does work, but sometimes it is easier to just dial back the 1st layer speed since I don’t have running water in the work shop. PETG adhesion gets better after the first print, so it could be the cooler chamber or residue on the nozzle from the previous material. One thing I really like about the Nextruder is that nozzles are easier to keep clean.
I have to agree. I rarely have issues with PETG, but when I do, the bed is dirty.
I am having some issues with some brands of ABS.
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For textured sheets cleaning isn’t always enough. I usually end up using a glue stick as well.
I think it depend on the printer,
I’ve given up for now on my textured sheet. I tried nearly all the tricks I could find online, including the glue stick that came with the printer. I could not get PETG to reliably hold down to get a good print. I didn’t try a slower first layer speed, I may give that a shot.
There are many posts about similar issues – it seems to be somewhat random depending on the sheet.
Tony
I find small objects do not stick to the textured sheet. I'll use smooth sheet for those.
The object should be 3 inches or more in diameter to stick well. Adding wide brims will help.
I rarely use the textured sheet. The Satin sheet is the best of both worlds - I use it 99% of the time - they're very nice - highly recommended!
The object should be 3 inches or more in diameter to stick well. Adding wide brims will help.
I rarely use the textured sheet. The Satin sheet is the best of both worlds - I use it 99% of the time - they're very nice - highly recommended!
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