L2 Lessons Learned

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Flare

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I recently got my L2. I flew a 4" Madcow DX3 that I fiberglassed all the tubes bar the coupler and set up for dual deploy. The motor was a J420 and the electronics were an EasyMini and a Quark.

There were a few things that I would describe as "abnormal" about the rocket - less so about the build but more about the flight configuration. First, the motor mount is 54mm and I used a 38 mm motor. That's not abnormal at all but I made a homemade adapter using a short section of homemade 38 mm tube and some 3d printed centering rings/thrust ring. The adapter was retained using a standard 54 mm aeropack retainer but the motor itself was retained in the adapter simply by wrapping a thick "retention ring" of sorts around the motor case right above the top of the adapter to prevent it from moving backwards out of the rocket. The second abnormal thing was my recovery blankets. I only had a couple small nomex blankets and don't have any raw stock of nomex fabric to cut some out of, so I just cut some out of denim from old jeans, covering the frayed edges using electrical tape. I'd seen it done somewhere on this forum and it seemed to work so I gave it a try on my ejection test and they did indeed work fine. I also had two protectors for each deployment event - one to wrap up the chute and a second to place right above the charge to protect most of the shock cord.

The flight was a complete success but there are still a few things that I liked and disliked about it.

Things I would do differently:

1. Do a better job on the solder joints in the avbay. One of the connections to the screw switch for the quark broke as I was hooking up the e-matches. I decided to just fly without the Quark enabled, using the EasyMini and motor eject for a backup on the drogue. The EasyMini worked perfectly but I would have liked to have flown the Quark as a backup at least to test and make sure of its functionality. In the future I might pot my solder joints in hot glue or epoxy, or even better, just wire the avionics bay such that there is always sufficient slack on the wires (but still containing them/tying them down so they don't get in the way).

2. Use kevlar shock cords. I used the nylon that came with the kit for the drogue side and another long nylon cord for the main side. It's what I had, but if possible on future projects I will always try to use kevlar - even with the double blankets I still got some singing and kevlar is easier to clean and doesn't melt like nylon does. The main side is easy to replace but the drogue side is of course epoxied to the motor mount which would make things difficult if I ever need to replace the shock cord on this rocket.

3. Add connectors to the outside of the avbay bulkheads for e-matches. I have done this before on my old school team's rockets and I am a big fan. I didn't have any connectors on hand for this one so I just had a hole in the bulkheads and ran the e-matches right into the altimeters. Prep at the launch site would be easier if I could fully button up the avbay the day before and only have to worry about plugging in the charges right at the end after I've tied the shock cords. Also means I spend less time with my hands right beside live charges.

4. In general I am not a fan of the molded plastic nosecones. The fit was quite loose and required a lot of tape to shim and the shear pins actually did not shear, just sort of bent out of place. It worked, but a proper fiberglass nosecone or at least a modified plastic one with a cardboard or fiberglass coupler would be nicer to work with.

5. Would have loved to have enough time to make a mount to stick a camera onboard.

Things I would do the same again:

1. 3d printed avionics sled. No reason not to do this. Easy mounting of batteries, channels for wiring to go in, built-in standoffs for boards and switches. Don't think I will ever fly a rocket with a flat wood or G10 plate in the avbay, like this kit was originally set up for.

2. Demin chute protectors. Worked great and cost me nothing. Might go ahead and try a demin deployment bag, would be pretty easy to make out of some pants!

3. Tape based motor retention in the homemade adapter. Same thing. Worked great and no cost.

4. The homemade adapter itself. Again, way cheaper than an aeropack one - just used an offcut of a 38 mm fiberglass tube I'd made for another project and a couple super small 3d printed parts.

5. Stick a gopro at the pad. Got a sick shot of the launch. Highly recommend putting a camera near the pad, really gives you a look you can't get from the flight line.

Anyways thanks to the organisers at URRG where I did the flight. Will definitely be back for more come next year.
 

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My phone is acting up, lol..

I'll edit soon...Apologies...

Michael B.
 

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agree with crimped connections, they are much more field serviceable.
Disagree with connectors outside of bulkheads for ebay because they just add a failure point. If you really feel the need, you can still do your ematches the night before, but i gotta wonder if you "button up the ebay the night before" does that mean that your battery is draining the entire time? It's not hard or time consuming just to run your ematches, leave a leg off the altimeter and a leg off your batteries. Then you hit the field, 2 little things and button up the ebay. Not horribly time consuming. Plus I know a lot of people who preconnect and just don't add powder.

Having said that fly the way you want, as long as you get it all done each time. I'm pretty anal about how I prep - ebay put together, then aft to forward. keeps me on track so I don't forget anything.
 
... other opinion...

I uses the worm and grommet method of sealing the wires as they pass through the bulkhead. On the parachute side of things I use Scotchlok butt splices. https://multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/313619O/3m-scotchlok-family-brochure.pdf

When I was a kid I used to work installing POTS copper lines, we used these splices all over the place. (Be careful of the amazon no brand ones, I have had issues with them NEVER had an issue with the 3M ones) you dont strip the wires, they are clear so you can see the splice when you are done. Just a pliers to install.

I leave the wire on the parachute side long enough I can do multiple flights just by cutting off the splice from the last flight and adding a new one. splice and then add a cable tie for strain relief.

Picture shows them after a flight, yellow wires go through bulkhead, blue / white wires are 'left over' e match wires. This is a 38mm rocket. Side Note the blue tape is for Gunk Prevention - keeps the charge gunk from hitting the av bay screws.

1707420841648.png
 
Grommet and worm detail - the rubber worm seals against the rubber grommet around the wire. I really hate terminals on the bulkhead. The wire goes directly to the altimeter. 2 connections per wire,
  1. connection from altimeter to the wire - terminal block or solder pad on altimeter
  2. connection from the wire to the E-Match Using Scotchlok connector
a small cable tie on the av bay prevents the wires from pulling directly on the altimeter.



1707421769906.png
 
agree with crimped connections, they are much more field serviceable.
Disagree with connectors outside of bulkheads for ebay because they just add a failure point. If you really feel the need, you can still do your ematches the night before, but i gotta wonder if you "button up the ebay the night before" does that mean that your battery is draining the entire time? It's not hard or time consuming just to run your ematches, leave a leg off the altimeter and a leg off your batteries. Then you hit the field, 2 little things and button up the ebay. Not horribly time consuming. Plus I know a lot of people who preconnect and just don't add powder.

Having said that fly the way you want, as long as you get it all done each time. I'm pretty anal about how I prep - ebay put together, then aft to forward. keeps me on track so I don't forget anything.

By button up the day before I mean close the bulkheads. Battery is plugged in but screw switch is off so it's not draining.

I find it a lot easier to do prep work at home rather than at the field. But I wouldn't want to drive to the site with ematches plugged in so I prefer having connectors on the outside of the bulkheads so I can plug my charges in as one of the last things on my checklist. I don't mind the extra failure point because then I can have all the wiring on the inside of the avionics bay be essentially permanent and routed exactly how I want and that beats fiddling the ematches around into the altimeter and through the bulkhead IMO. I definitley wouldn't want to have one leg hanging off, always a chance something like that could short.

If I was using charge wells/cannons I wouldnt mind preconnecting and not adding powder but that's not as easy to do with glovetip charges.

In any case these differences are minute and I'm sure your preferred way is equally safe and sound as mine. It all comes down to preference and what we are comfortable doing on a personal level.
 
By button up the day before I mean close the bulkheads. Battery is plugged in but screw switch is off so it's not draining.

I find it a lot easier to do prep work at home rather than at the field. But I wouldn't want to drive to the site with ematches plugged in so I prefer having connectors on the outside of the bulkheads so I can plug my charges in as one of the last things on my checklist. I don't mind the extra failure point because then I can have all the wiring on the inside of the avionics bay be essentially permanent and routed exactly how I want and that beats fiddling the ematches around into the altimeter and through the bulkhead IMO. I definitley wouldn't want to have one leg hanging off, always a chance something like that could short.

If I was using charge wells/cannons I wouldnt mind preconnecting and not adding powder but that's not as easy to do with glovetip charges.

In any case these differences are minute and I'm sure your preferred way is equally safe and sound as mine. It all comes down to preference and what we are comfortable doing on a personal level.
I've been using external connectors on my av-bays for 16 years. I've never had an issue with the connections. Sure, it's a fail point, but if the reliability is 99.99%, does it really reduce the chance of failure by opening and rewiring the av-bay every flight? I think the exterior connectors are more reliable since opening and messing with wires and other connections in the av-bay has a higher chance of causing a failure than the external connectors.
I had a rocket with 50 flights. The external connectors on the main side get very dirty and coated with BP residue. Even after 50 flights, they never had any connection issues.

I do all my prep work at home. I use charge wells and after testing the matches alone, I load the wells with BP and prep them for flight. I do carry all my rockets in the bed of a pickup so if something did set them off, I don't feel there is any danger to myself or others. With that said, I don't feel the vibrations, shocks, etc. that is felt during transport is near as extreme as what is felt during flight. If the av-bay and charges can't handle transport, they will almost certainly fail in flight.

I've been doing av-bay and charge prep for 16 years so doing it at the field isn't that big of deal, it's just easier to do at home and lets me fly more instead of spending all that time prepping at the field.

But as you say "I'm sure your preferred way is equally safe and sound as mine. " Just like my L2 cert, you learn a LOT with every build and make things quicker, easier, and safer with each build.
 
I recently got my L2. I flew a 4" Madcow DX3 that I fiberglassed all the tubes bar the coupler and set up for dual deploy. The motor was a J420 and the electronics were an EasyMini and a Quark.

There were a few things that I would describe as "abnormal" about the rocket - less so about the build but more about the flight configuration. First, the motor mount is 54mm and I used a 38 mm motor. That's not abnormal at all but I made a homemade adapter using a short section of homemade 38 mm tube and some 3d printed centering rings/thrust ring. The adapter was retained using a standard 54 mm aeropack retainer but the motor itself was retained in the adapter simply by wrapping a thick "retention ring" of sorts around the motor case right above the top of the adapter to prevent it from moving backwards out of the rocket. The second abnormal thing was my recovery blankets. I only had a couple small nomex blankets and don't have any raw stock of nomex fabric to cut some out of, so I just cut some out of denim from old jeans, covering the frayed edges using electrical tape. I'd seen it done somewhere on this forum and it seemed to work so I gave it a try on my ejection test and they did indeed work fine. I also had two protectors for each deployment event - one to wrap up the chute and a second to place right above the charge to protect most of the shock cord.

The flight was a complete success but there are still a few things that I liked and disliked about it.

Things I would do differently:

1. Do a better job on the solder joints in the avbay. One of the connections to the screw switch for the quark broke as I was hooking up the e-matches. I decided to just fly without the Quark enabled, using the EasyMini and motor eject for a backup on the drogue. The EasyMini worked perfectly but I would have liked to have flown the Quark as a backup at least to test and make sure of its functionality. In the future I might pot my solder joints in hot glue or epoxy, or even better, just wire the avionics bay such that there is always sufficient slack on the wires (but still containing them/tying them down so they don't get in the way).

2. Use kevlar shock cords. I used the nylon that came with the kit for the drogue side and another long nylon cord for the main side. It's what I had, but if possible on future projects I will always try to use kevlar - even with the double blankets I still got some singing and kevlar is easier to clean and doesn't melt like nylon does. The main side is easy to replace but the drogue side is of course epoxied to the motor mount which would make things difficult if I ever need to replace the shock cord on this rocket.

3. Add connectors to the outside of the avbay bulkheads for e-matches. I have done this before on my old school team's rockets and I am a big fan. I didn't have any connectors on hand for this one so I just had a hole in the bulkheads and ran the e-matches right into the altimeters. Prep at the launch site would be easier if I could fully button up the avbay the day before and only have to worry about plugging in the charges right at the end after I've tied the shock cords. Also means I spend less time with my hands right beside live charges.

4. In general I am not a fan of the molded plastic nosecones. The fit was quite loose and required a lot of tape to shim and the shear pins actually did not shear, just sort of bent out of place. It worked, but a proper fiberglass nosecone or at least a modified plastic one with a cardboard or fiberglass coupler would be nicer to work with.

5. Would have loved to have enough time to make a mount to stick a camera onboard.

Things I would do the same again:

1. 3d printed avionics sled. No reason not to do this. Easy mounting of batteries, channels for wiring to go in, built-in standoffs for boards and switches. Don't think I will ever fly a rocket with a flat wood or G10 plate in the avbay, like this kit was originally set up for.

2. Demin chute protectors. Worked great and cost me nothing. Might go ahead and try a demin deployment bag, would be pretty easy to make out of some pants!

3. Tape based motor retention in the homemade adapter. Same thing. Worked great and no cost.

4. The homemade adapter itself. Again, way cheaper than an aeropack one - just used an offcut of a 38 mm fiberglass tube I'd made for another project and a couple super small 3d printed parts.

5. Stick a gopro at the pad. Got a sick shot of the launch. Highly recommend putting a camera near the pad, really gives you a look you can't get from the flight line.

Anyways thanks to the organisers at URRG where I did the flight. Will definitely be back for more come next year.
To your point in paragraph 2, I always use eye bolts or U bolts on my forward centering ring, through which I pass a loop of shock cord material (nylon strap or kevlar) that reaches to the top of the airframe. Connect that to another peice of shock cord that goes to the AV bay or nose cone. When the loop wears out, you can cut it and use it as a leader to pull a new piece through the eye bolt or U bolt. I also use a nomex blanket to cover the opening of the motor mount tube in addition to the blanket around the parachute. It works great if you take the time to pack everything carefully.
 

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