How Long to Hold Vacuum When Vacuum Bagging?

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John Kemker

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I'm about to start my first foray into vacuum bagging fins. Was wondering how long I need to run the vacuum pump, as my vacuum port doesn't self-seal once I turn off the pump. Would I be better off putting a valve inline with the vacuum port so I can close the valve and maintain vacuum throughout the cure? Or, can I remove vacuum after the epoxy reaches gel stage?
 
I'm about to start my first foray into vacuum bagging fins. Was wondering how long I need to run the vacuum pump, as my vacuum port doesn't self-seal once I turn off the pump. Would I be better off putting a valve inline with the vacuum port so I can close the valve and maintain vacuum throughout the cure? Or, can I remove vacuum after the epoxy reaches gel stage?
Just stick a small ball valve in line. shut the valve off once you've got a good vacuum. While refrigiration vacuum pumps will hapily run with little or no air being pumped through them, you will get oil mist coming from them. If you are holding a vacuum(no leaks) then you can turn the inline ball valve off and then vacuum pump off

Resin infusion video

Shows how to seal pleats in the vacuum bag.
 
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I usually keep vacuum on the project until the resin cures to the "leather" stage, by then it should be bonded and the excess resin pulled from the matrix material. I de-bag at this stage and trim ends and edges while they are easily cut with a sharp razor blade, so I dont have to deal with fully hardened resin and cloth later which requires power tools. My Robinair single stage pump only really propduces a visible mist during the initial rapid pull-down, after that I dont notice any further oil from the exhaust.
 
When the epoxy isn't 100 percent cured, you can get a better result with a scraper than with sandpaper.

I have seen a gadget which used a vacuum diaphragm thing, working against a spring, to switch the vacuum pump on and off. I think the diaphragm thing may have come form a carburetor housing or whatever we used to call them, and would take warm air from a shroud around the exhaust manifold when the engine was running slowly and it was cold. It pulled a threaded rod against a spring. On the threaded rod were a couple of tabs held by nuts which poked at a small switch. That way, even if there was a leak, the pump wouldn't run all the time. Here is a similar switch:
https://www.glide.net.au/flyingwing/vacbag/index.html
Best with a vacuum reservoir. I'm guessing an old, small propane tank would probably be good for a vacuum reservoir. (Kind of funny to call it a reservoir, since there's nothing in it.) I've seen a 55 gallon drum used that way, but it turned out not to be strong enough. I understand it was pretty loud when it collapsed.

BTW, if the vacuum pump sound is annoying, run the exhaust through a line into a sealed jar or other fairly rigid container, with another tube coming out of the lid. Acts like a muffler, and, if your pump is the kind that spits oil, will presumably trap oil.

BTW, what's cheap and available that makes decent vacuum oil? I have an ancient vacuum pump in my garage, and I want to make a big bell jar so I can dry wet boots or potassium nitrate, degas RNX, and stuff like that. At least after I dig down deep enough to find it again.
 
Thanks. I didn't know that auto parts places carried that. I guess you need a vacuum pump to properly service the AC?
 
I'm about to start my first foray into vacuum bagging fins. Was wondering how long I need to run the vacuum pump, as my vacuum port doesn't self-seal once I turn off the pump. Would I be better off putting a valve inline with the vacuum port so I can close the valve and maintain vacuum throughout the cure? Or, can I remove vacuum after the epoxy reaches gel stage?
I built a vacuum pump system that monitors the pressure after I set it and cycles. Originally built for vacuum bagging wings and composite airplane parts for pylon racing but works great anything vacuum bagging related. I believe the plans for the kit and most of the parts were sourced from JoeWoodworker.com back in the day. I hold vacuum until full cure and then trim if needed.vacuum Pump.jpg
 
I suggest an inline ball valve in any case. By slowly introducing the vacuum to the part, you have time to adjust the bag as the vacuum process begins.

Also, I take a small piece of layup and set it beside the rocket part being vacuum bagged, so that I know how the part is curing. Then stop the vacuum at "leather-stage" and trim.
 
Usually let pump run 8-12 hours, mostly cured. Trim next day hard.
Was taught how by a guy who made airplane parts, wing tips and cowlings. Asked if pump could be turned off earlier, "This is how I do it. If you are not going to follow instructions go away."
 
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