What did you do rocket wise today?

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Finished up the build on my ASP D Region Tomahawk, now it joins the other three naked rockets on the bench that are all built, but waiting for good weather for a paint job... Started looking at what to clean in the garage so I can clear the bay out for a fiberglass build project I have coming up... Will be my largest build yet!
Take a picture now, and then after you get done organizing it so we can see the difference.
 
Prepped the twelve little wood vanes on BOSS.

The fit of the BT-55 upper tube onto the green centering rings atop the lower tube is pretty sloppy. It would be easy to glue it crooked by mistake. I'm going to put the vanes on the lower tube and hope they can act as a shelf for the upper tube to rest on and dry straight.

20240402_192942.jpg
 
Prepped the twelve little wood vanes on BOSS.

The fit of the BT-55 upper tube onto the green centering rings atop the lower tube is pretty sloppy. It would be easy to glue it crooked by mistake. I'm going to put the vanes on the lower tube and hope they can act as a shelf for the upper tube to rest on and dry straight.

View attachment 638434
 
Prepped the twelve little wood vanes on BOSS.

The fit of the BT-55 upper tube onto the green centering rings atop the lower tube is pretty sloppy. It would be easy to glue it crooked by mistake. I'm going to put the vanes on the lower tube and hope they can act as a shelf for the upper tube to rest on and dry straight.

View attachment 638434

Perhaps the green rings are the ones that BT-56 is supposed to go in?
 
Working on the TNT site this evening, I took notes for my upcoming blockbuster "Everything You Never Wanted to Know about Club Express but Were Forced to Find Out."

(Apologies to Douglas Adams)
 
Yeah. If I were to cut the fiberglass with my Dremel I would have to get new cutting wheels because the ones I have are literally so thin and brittle that they splinter apart when I am (trying) to cut basswood.
I don't think those little abrasive wheels are really meant for basswood. If you want to make them sturdier, try stacking two or three, and maybe even glue them together, as long as the glue won't stick to metal. Elmers? The abrasive wheels that look like they are made out of fiberglass are sturdier. Maybe abrasive is the wrong term. I think they cut with fire as much as with abrasion.
 
Prepped the twelve little wood vanes on BOSS.

The fit of the BT-55 upper tube onto the green centering rings atop the lower tube is pretty sloppy. It would be easy to glue it crooked by mistake. I'm going to put the vanes on the lower tube and hope they can act as a shelf for the upper tube to rest on and dry straight.

View attachment 638434
Can you devise a fixture to hold it straight while gluing?
 
Can you devise a fixture to hold it straight while gluing?
Possibly, but it will be easier to use the vanes as a shelf, so I'm going to try that first. I did test fit the vanes on and they do stick out a little bit past the ring, so once all twelve are on, they should be able to hold the upper tube straight. It just may need to be held vertical as it dries, which is no problem.
 
Got the base coat done on the Big Bertha, now just detailing to go. Launch Lug is now soundly mounted as well!

20240404_182719.jpg

P.S. after working with rustoleum 2x, the Montana paints are sooo much nicer. The cans don't go as far, but it's ready to recover in 20 min and dry in 24hrs, even the metallic paints. The local auto shop just started carrying them.
 
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I was working on motor mount fillets for my LOC Hi-Tech, using a long dowel to epoxy the forward centering ring way at the bottom of the booster, when I saw that I had forgotten to attach the shock cord to the eyebolt before installing the mount. Ugghh. I have a long spring-activated claw tool to try to push the cord through, but it is a 1/4" Onebadhawk kevlar cord with a sewn loop and it was a squeeze when test fitted by hand. May need to cut the tube, but any ideas are much appreciated.
 
I was working on motor mount fillets for my LOC Hi-Tech, using a long dowel to epoxy the forward centering ring way at the bottom of the booster, when I saw that I had forgotten to attach the shock cord to the eyebolt before installing the mount. Ugghh. I have a long spring-activated claw tool to try to push the cord through, but it is a 1/4" Onebadhawk kevlar cord with a sewn loop and it was a squeeze when test fitted by hand. May need to cut the tube, but any ideas are much appreciated.
Can you feed a smaller diameter cord through the eyebolt, pull the end back out the body tube, and then affix your kevlar harness to that 'pull string', so you can then pull the kevlar down and through?
 
Can you feed a smaller diameter cord through the eyebolt, pull the end back out the body tube, and then affix your kevlar harness to that 'pull string', so you can then pull the kevlar down and through?
That sounds like the right answer, if you can do it. Also, you could take about a half inch of one end of the pilot string and put a right angle bend in it, wetting the end with thin CA. That will make getting that end to fall through the eye easier, then that's what you grab with the claw.

If all that fails, you might try cutting a hole in the side near the eye instead of cutting the tube off. A full cut off could be reassembled with a coupler, of course. A hole can be covered up by a greeble, if you're into that sort of thing.
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As for what I did, just registered for LDRS.
 
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If all that fails, you might try cutting a hole in the side near the eye instead of cutting the tube off. A full cut off could be reassembled with a coupler, of course. A hole can be covered up by a greeble, if you're into that sort of thing.
It would be a lot easier to just cut off the loop.
 
I was working on motor mount fillets for my LOC Hi-Tech, using a long dowel to epoxy the forward centering ring way at the bottom of the booster, when I saw that I had forgotten to attach the shock cord to the eyebolt before installing the mount. Ugghh. I have a long spring-activated claw tool to try to push the cord through, but it is a 1/4" Onebadhawk kevlar cord with a sewn loop and it was a squeeze when test fitted by hand. May need to cut the tube, but any ideas are much appreciated.
2 Long dowels with BluTac. Leave 1-2 inches of cord press cord into BluTac. Push down to eye and feed short bit thtough eye. Push other dowel with BluTac down and press onto cord now through eye. Keep pressed and remove 1st dowel. Pull cord up while feeding cord down so there is minimal tension. Put dowels and BluTac in your flight box for next time..... :)
 
I was working on motor mount fillets for my LOC Hi-Tech, using a long dowel to epoxy the forward centering ring way at the bottom of the booster, when I saw that I had forgotten to attach the shock cord to the eyebolt before installing the mount. Ugghh. I have a long spring-activated claw tool to try to push the cord through, but it is a 1/4" Onebadhawk kevlar cord with a sewn loop and it was a squeeze when test fitted by hand. May need to cut the tube, but any ideas are much appreciated.
Do you have any little kids around?
Years ago I was building a 2.6" LOC kit and was about to bend some coat hangers to feed a shock cord through an eye bolt. My daughter took the cord, stuck her arm down the tube and put the cord through the eyebolt. Last year I was going to replace that cord so I taped a hobby knife to a dowel and cut the old cord then I got to bend some wire to feed the new cord in.
 
Got shipping notification from a certain mid west rocket company that my next big project (and will be my largest built to date) shipped..... After work, I started to build a few motors for my first launch of the year in a week, and I discovered that I of the 6 complete 38mm motor sets I have, all but one have a plugged fwd closure! I guess I will be building a motor at the field!
 
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