I have got to wonder if using 4 pennies or 2 x 25 cent pieces in the nose will help it to glide better.
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I got my kit from EBay at a good price. Otherwise you can guesstimate the dimensions from these pics.BTW, does anyone know where I can get the vac-formed canopy for the HL-10 kit, please? Otherwise, I'll guesstimate the dimensions and make my own vac-form copy. Thanks!
Ah, you might be on to something! I think you're right that the megaphone shape of the aeroshroud allows sufficient gas expansion as it exits the motor nozzle to prevent the shock wave from forming inside.Maybe the divergent aeroshroud shape results in the shock waves forming outside the shroud rather than inside? As opposed to the cylindrical shape of a tube?
IDK, not a physicist.
Oh wow that’s a Centuri Saturn V and the X-24. I bet you could use this Builders Kit from Boyce Aerospace and put an X-24 or X-RV on top,
And electronically stage the X-24.Oh wow that’s a Centuri Saturn V and the X-24. I bet you could use this Builders Kit from Boyce Aerospace and put an X-24 or X-RV on top,
https://boyceaerospacehobbies.com/c.../dyna-soar-titan-ii-builders-kit-1-73rd-scale
I made an unsuccessful attempt a few years ago to use a Quest Big Betty as a “Bug Lifter” - never got the CP/CG relationship right, best it did was a loop and crash about 20 feet from launch. Might try it again with something bigger like my much crashed ExecutionerOh wow that’s a Centuri Saturn V and the X-24. I bet you could use this Builders Kit from Boyce Aerospace and put an X-24 or X-RV on top,
https://boyceaerospacehobbies.com/c.../dyna-soar-titan-ii-builders-kit-1-73rd-scale
What is the other site, please? Thanks!Guys,
There's a long thread over at the other website about this but the short version is, that the ideal launch lug location is internally, glued to the bottom of the engine mount tube and out under the nose cone; the fins need to be reduced to about half the size they are; and, more importantly, constructed so they fold on the leading edge, not the top, giving them a V-shape.
The fin fold mod is incorporated in the Quest HL-20 version. The cone itself actually doesn't need fins at all. You will visibly notice the performance difference these three mods make.
Think of it as the Ultimate 18mm-powered X-24 Bug.
Thank You Kirirn. I check things out, although I think that I might just go ahead and make my own by vac-forming. Cheers!I got my kit from EBay at a good price. Otherwise you can guesstimate the dimensions from these pics.
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Maybe hijack a canopy from a plastic model set?
Or use one from Apogee?
Vacuum-Formed Canopy PNC-33A (apogeerockets.com)
I would love to learn how to do that! Maybe a tutorial thread?I check things out, although I think that I might just go ahead and make my own by vac-forming. Cheers!
What kind of plastic, please.Kurinin, I changed my mind and I've ordered one from Apogee!
BTW, my friend. For a tutorial, look up on the net how to simple vac-form a canopy. Other wise, carve the shape that You want the piece to be, then put the flat bottom down on a piece of a 1/8th" birch plank ( get them at the hobby shops). Cut the shape out and then drill a hole into the bottom of the wood canopy and glue a 6" long dowel rod the diameter of the hole into it. Next thumbtack a piece of plastic, clear or otherwise to the bottom of the birch plank. Heat Your oven up to NO MORE than 350 degrees, place the Birch plank with the plastic tacked to it until the plastic starts to sag SLIGHTLY. Take the Birch piece out of the oven and QUICKLY shove the wood canopy piece through the Birch /plastic piece. Keep the male mold pressed into the Birch female mold until cold. When cold, pull the male mold out of the female mold, cut it out and there You are. Cheers
I’d just rather have it eject and hopefully glide down with the booster recovery with a chute.And electronically stage the X-24.
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