We use 12v gel cells like that posted by @SolarYellow for our multi-pad launch systems, one at each pad bank.
Well lucky you! For most of us, commercial standard is the way to go.I have a lab-grade power supply, so I can slow-charge the VRLA to exactly the voltage I want with a current limit I specify.
It really depends on the igniters you're wanting to fire (and to a lesser extent the motor types you want to fire), and the current-flowing capability of the wiring. Certainly a 6V lead acid battery will do what four (good) AAs can do. I'd be a little leery of trying to cluster with 6V as the current will get high (and so the voltage will sag) with the usual parallel connections....but again it depends on the igniters.One thing I've wondered about is the 6V vs 12V versions of those. The 6V is half the size and I've see it (same brand) for as low as $7. Seems like a screaming bargain. The Estes Electron Beam Launch Controller uses 4 AA batteries, so I figure the VRLA should be more than adequate. Bump it up with bigger wires, like 16GA, and it should be able to handle some reasonable clusters.
I've also seen discussion of a 12V battery providing so much current to a resistive ignitor that it basically blew it out rapidly, reducing the duration of the ignition heat to the point that reliability may have been impacted negatively.
Would be happy to see any discussion of 6V vs 12V with people who have used batteries of equivalent current capacity at both voltages. @BEC
I have mentioned that the Estes Sonic igniters, which were made for the Estes-relabeled Aerotech motors that were sold when the Pro Series II was new a decade ago were, I am told by a reliable source, made specifically to fire those motors from a 9V source as the simple and durable PSII launch controller is configured for 6 C-cells. On 12V they fired so quickly that they often didn't get the White Lightning motors lit.
Thank you for this. Purchased. Will work with my charger.
I have modified my Estes Electron Beam controller for 12V. Pretty simple. I have the plan from Sport Rocketry I could mail you .I use a motorcycle battery I carry to and from launches in a bucket. Make sure you use a 12 V bulb in the controller.One thing I've wondered about is the 6V vs 12V versions of those. The 6V is half the size and I've see it (same brand) for as low as $7. Seems like a screaming bargain. The Estes Electron Beam Launch Controller uses 4 AA batteries, so I figure the VRLA should be more than adequate. Bump it up with bigger wires, like 16GA, and it should be able to handle some reasonable clusters.
I've also seen discussion of a 12V battery providing so much current to a resistive ignitor that it basically blew it out rapidly, reducing the duration of the ignition heat to the point that reliability may have been impacted negatively.
Would be happy to see any discussion of 6V vs 12V with people who have used batteries of equivalent current capacity at both voltages. @BEC
I'm using a battery like that in my homemade launch controller that I built several years ago. Inexpensive, durable, and works with my 12v trickle charger/ battery conditioner. And I've never had problems with it being too much voltage for ignitors.
My 12v 7ah SLA battery is 20+ years old and still going strong.Thank you for this. Purchased. Will work with my charger.
If this goes south, I'll look into the 5AH 3s LiPoly.
Ditto. I have a zillion 12V SLA batteries left over from an old UPS. Fairly cheap, plenty of umph, easy to charge. I've launched 7 motors clusters with dedicated leads using a breakout box (no parallel or series wiring of igniters) with no issue.Never had any issues with 12 v lead acid systems. It's easier to get good 12 v chargers, so I've stuck with those.
I got it at 23$ total. If I waited, could have save 3$. Not worth it, I now have a solution. Thanks for the excellent suggestion!It's down to $20.00 at the moment.
Or just add one of these, and a supercap, to make your controller almost omnivorous. It's possible some other little bits may be required.If you have battery powered hand tools, you can find battery holders with power leads for the batteries. Wire the leads into your launcher or incorporate the battery holder right into the controller and you can use your tool batteries for power.
You might need to change the LED resistors if they are a higher voltage then what your controller has now, but it's a pretty simple and reliable method. Just grab a battery out of a drill or other tool when you go to launch. You probably don't even need to charge it after, just pop it back in the drill.
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